Plants make any home feel effortlessly natural, calming, and comfortable. Plus, I like how they fit perfectly with the mid-century modern designs of my home.
I looked everywhere for a cute plant stand before deciding to make my own. I wanted to challenge myself and create some industrial decor. I knew nothing about construction, so making this modern little plant stand involved a lot of experimentation. One of the biggest reasons I chose to use concrete was because I wanted it to have raw edges.
If you’ve never chipped edges on concrete before, I recommend making a practice slab. Chipping cement is a tedious process, but worth the effort. It took me about 45 minutes to complete the raw edge effect of this table.
You can purchase the materials for this project at your local hardware store.
Tools & Materials
- 16-inch dowels (3)
- Orbital sander
- Sandpaper
- Painter’s tape
- Brushes
- Wood stain, color of your choice
- Disposable work gloves
- Disposable rags
- White paint
- Concrete powder
- Buckets (2)
- Water
- Mortar hoe or other stirrer
- Hammer
- Small flat-head screwdriver or chisel
Instructions
Step 1: Gently sand the dowels, and then taper down one end of each, slightly rounding them out to create the bottoms of the table legs. (I used an electric orbital sander.) Wipe away any sawdust clinging to the legs.
Step 2: Wrap a piece of painter’s tape around each leg, 5 inches from the bottom of the tapered end. The painter’s tape will help prevent the stain from dripping onto the lower portion of the legs. Next, brush the stain of your choice onto the top portion of the legs, above the painter’s tape. (I used a walnut-colored stain to match the furniture in my home.) For best results, allow the stain to set for 18 to 24 hours.
Step 3: After the stain is completely dry, remove the painter’s tape, discard it, and use new pieces to wrap around the legs at the bottom of the stained portion. This will help create a clean line where the stain and paint meet. Next, brush white paint on the bottom section of each leg. I recommend using multiple layers of primer to prevent any stray stain from seeping through the paint. Be careful not to use an overloaded brush when painting near the tape. Allow to dry thoroughly.
Step 4: Next, make the tabletop. Begin by pouring the concrete powder into one of the buckets. Add water, following the instructions on the package. Thoroughly mix the concrete, getting rid of as many clumps as possible. Keep in mind that the amount of cement you pour into the bucket will double in size when mixed with water, so start small and work in more powder as you go.
Step 5: Pick up the second bucket, and mark a line 2? inches above the bottom on the interior. This’ll be the thickness of your tabletop. When the concrete is mixed, carefully pour it into the second bucket until it reaches the mark.
Step 6: Push the legs into the middle of the wet cement, 3 inches apart in a triangle shape, angling them out and away from the center. Make sure the legs don’t touch, and don’t push them completely to the bottom of the bucket. Position the legs so they’ll sit evenly on the floor and balance the table when it’s finished.
Step 7: Lightly tap the sides of the bucket with a hammer to force any air bubbles out of the cement. Let the tabletop cure inside the bucket for about 24 hours.
Step 8: After 24 hours have passed, gently tap the sides of the bucket with a hammer to help release the tabletop. Be cautious, because hard blows can crack the cement.
Step 9: To finish the table, use a hammer and chisel to create the raw edge effect on the outer edge of the tabletop.
Chiseling Tips
Concrete is prone to breaking, especially when it’s not fully cured. If you’re not careful, you could easily take a small chunk out of the side of your table. Chiseling the raw edge properly takes time.
Flip the table upside down, and, using a hammer and flat-head screwdriver, chisel the edges about an inch of the way down. Don’t chip all the way to the other side of the table. When you’ve chipped the bottom edge, flip the table right-side up and chip the edges on the top edge. Once the top and bottom areas on the circumference of the edge are to your liking, chisel the remaining surface in between.
Lily Ardor is a DIY and home renovations blogger from Idaho. This project, printed with permission, is a post from her blog.
